- TWEAKING NEW IMAGES WITH BACKYARDEOS SOFTWARE
- TWEAKING NEW IMAGES WITH BACKYARDEOS TRIAL
- TWEAKING NEW IMAGES WITH BACKYARDEOS ISO
If all else fails I may have to just drag the lappy out with me and see how it copes in the cold! I'm going to see if I can knock up a HMask this week and give it a go but as ever, it depends on the decent weather. Yes that was my worry with the BMask (being so close to the lens). PS: That is quite a nice capture, all the major stars are showing good and accurate colour so well done. There are other reasons why even an in focus star would not appear as pinpoint ( lens abberrations, atmospheric conditions, inefficient - filter coatings and so on ) but at this moment they are not relevant, one step at a time. This is the most surefire way of getting things right and this is what everyone in the imaging section uses for DSOs and their stars are small and pinpiont even after hours of exposure.
TWEAKING NEW IMAGES WITH BACKYARDEOS TRIAL
I use APT, fully functional even in the trial version and only £10.00 for the license, and the FWHM focus aid.
TWEAKING NEW IMAGES WITH BACKYARDEOS SOFTWARE
You have two options, taking a lot of exposure of a bright star and altering the focus till you get close ( very time consuming ) but this will never be close enough if you ever decided to go serious about imaging, or use a laptop and software assisted focusing ( you will have to use this in the end anyway so get used to it from the start ). Manual focusing and AP are not compatible and liveview focusing though much better, is still a hit and miss affair. Having been imaging now for just over 6 months I can you that you have focus issues there. I think this was advised in another thread but doesn't seem to be working for me:(
TWEAKING NEW IMAGES WITH BACKYARDEOS ISO
I'm using the bulb setting and 20 sec exposure on a canon 1100D (with remote and tripod!), so the iso is set at 800. the stars appear as discs not sharp points:( Here's an example: Hi all, I've just taken my first few images, but I keep getting the same problem. But a dark site might be lacking in well, y'know. My best focus has actually come from a very distant but bright streetlight or lampost using auto-focus and then clamping or switching off auto focus for imaging. The hartman mask i feel would be a better bet due to the shape being split then coming together when close to focus, they are also slightly easier to make at home i'd imagine. I mention earlier in the thread about a bahtinov i bought for dslr lenses which I spent a frustrating night trying to find a combination of settings and bright star where i could even get a pattern, let alone successful focus - it might just be me, but it seemed that having it so close to the lens and the small amount of light from the star just wasn't effective. The only way I've ever managed to get focus is by using live view and zoom on the laptop, has anyone actually tried a Hartmann mask directly on the camera lens? I'm hopefully somewhere dark in a couple of weeks but will only have the camera (no laptop or telescope etc) so something like this would be a cracking help I think.
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